Saturday, May 25, 2013

Arrivederci Roma

Today is day due of the return to Rome. Bittersweet. Last nights dinner wine tasting was over the  top. No headaches this morning. Just heartaches over pending departure. 

The gang sans Tws went to the coliseum. And  I ran last minute "errands" . We met at noon at Campo  di Fiore. Forno for a foccachia then strolling around the market eyeing foods and last minute presents. Lunch at Bacchanal and it did not disappoint. Mussels, then gnocchi so light they were like clouds on the perfect sauce. Crisp white wines. Relaxing people watching. Perfecto !

There were  high winds today. Pushing out the dark clouds but stirring things up in the market with all of the umbrellas. It was alternating chilly and hot depending on the sun but luckily the rain stayed away. We strolled over to Frigidarium for our last gelato.  Canals( cinnamon) And coconut. Chocolate and mint chocolate two other favs. 

Then we took a long walk over to the Vatican and St Peters. At 240 in the afternoon almost no line. I have found this timing to work almost every time. We opted for St. Peter's and the Cupola. The guys had not seen  either. 

Wow was a common theme. The interior of St Peters is towering and the altar is very tall, but the overall size of the place makes it hard to get a perspective. 
Then the over 500 steps up to the top of St Peters and the cupola. This stairwell is a little easier climb than the Duomo in Firenze. The builders had learned lessons from that and therefore a more manageable climb. But still with circular steps and spiral stairs and occasional stops giving a landing. Once up to the first level you traverse around interior rim of the dome. The view down is striking. It helps you gain some perspective on the height. 

Then on to the top and the area where you can view Rome from a resting spot or again take final spiral steps within the walls of the dome itself to reach the Lanterna. Or the lantern. Now you may go outside the top and walk the outer rim, viewing all of Rome. It is breathtaking but a little scary in how high you are as well as the fencing holding in the tourists as they gostle for the best photo. 

We made it down just before the rains passed through but the winds were powerful bursts that  would almost knock you down. We opted for taxi home. A little packing, last minute sights and then ready for the last dinner. We had chosen Renata e Louisa on the recommendation of a friend and a recent blog post by Elizabeth Minchili. It is a very old family run resturant in the Ghetto off of the Largo Argentina.  We were welcomed and had a delightful English speaking  waiter assigned to us. Very few Americans , all apparent locals , the menu was different and the wine list extensive. The meal was long and delicious , mostly pasta by our choice. The heavy meals have finally caught up with some of the group. The starters included ricotta stuffed and fried zucchini flowers which we love.  B had a beautiful price of tuna and I had the special carbonara with shaved black truffles. Truly spectacular. M had buccatini pomoforo with spicy sauce and proclaimed it best pasta of the trip. We followed with chocolate torte and strawberry tiramisu a house special. Our waiter suggested  Limoncello as a "digestive" and a stroll was in order. We adored our waiter Mateai who ran interference for us with "mama". Somehow via email there was confusion about the date of our reservation. Not for us, we saved the email, but Mama was not happy with us. After we proved appreciative of the meal and the ambiance she relaxed and accepted the "Americano who can't get dates correct" . Undoubtedly for a small  resturant this caused an issue when we did not appear. A'scuzi. 

Our last stroll was to the Trevi for the obligatory coin toss. It has worked for me so I don't ignore superstition or tradition. We Want to return to Rome!
A Roma! 

Arriverderchi Roma! 
Photos from our last day 


Caffe cappuccino 

Off to the colliseum
First, breakfast at our "spot" on the piazza Della Rotunda 


The horses wore ear muffs due the chill 
Political posters everywhere 
The Colonna
Via condotti

Markets near the Piazza de Popolo



Radicchio 








Off to meet the gang at the Campo

While I was shopping they took in the glory of the Coliseum 




A walk  allong the Romam Forum
Forum Porta 
Lunch at Trattoria Bachanalle on the Campo 


Amazing simplicity of perfect fresh Bruschetta and rucola
Now proclaimed "Romes best gnocchi "
What happened to the mussles ? 
Octopus salad ! Perfect 
More veggie love in the Campo





My favorite bar cafe since 2001 when I visited - still the same. 
The "Un" fountain 
Now time for Frigidarium 
The freshest flavors


Castello as seen from the bridge 
I love the fountains of Rome big and small 
No one in line. 




A second look at the dome 

Looking down from inside the rim  of the interior dome
 Top of the altar

Looking out a stairway portal 

Climbing in thecupola
 

Vatican gardens

At the top it was windy and rainy 
Final Apertivo on our square


Cake at Renata e Louisa
Great last night 
The Trevi in all its splendor 
Ciao Rome
Arriverderchi Roma